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Research & Science

Laugh Lines (Nasolabial Folds) After 40: What Works, What Doesn’t, and What’s Just Hype: References

  2. Mendelson B, Wong CH. Anatomy of the aging face: fat compartments and structural changes. Aesthetic Surgery Journal (2012): https://academic.oup.com/asj/article/32/3/257/239687
  3. Green AC, Williams GM, Logan V, Strutton GM. Daily sunscreen application and beta-carotene supplementation in prevention of photoaging: a randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine (2013): https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/23732711/
  4. Weiss JS et al. Topical tretinoin improves photoaged skin: a double-blind, vehicle-controlled study. JAMA (1991): https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/2054936/
  5. Kafi R et al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with retinol. Archives of Dermatology (2007): https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/17515554/
  6. Blanes-Mira C et al. A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2002): https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/abs/10.1111/j.1467-2494.2002.00158.x
  7. Wang Y et al. Efficacy of acetyl hexapeptide-8 in topical anti-wrinkle formulations: review of clinical and in vitro data. Cosmetics (2021): https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/8/2/35
  8. Rawlings AV, Harding CR. Moisturization and skin barrier function. Dermatologic Therapy (2004): https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/15320845/
  9. Peres PS et al. Effects of topical algae extracts on skin barrier and oxidative stress markers. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2011): https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21605144/
  10. Gold MH et al. Hyaluronic acid gel for correction of nasolabial folds: multicenter, randomized, evaluator-blinded study. Dermatologic Surgery (2007): https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/18093204/
  11. Alam M, Dover JS. Management of the aging face: lasers, radiofrequency microneedling, and ultrasound tightening—evidence review. Dermatologic Clinics (2019): https://www.derm.theclinics.com/article/S0733-8635(19)30054-3/fulltext

 

How can Macrocystis Pyrifera (Kelp) Extract benefit you post treatment?

1. Potent Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Edema (Anti-Puffiness) Action

The Claim: Macrocystis Pyrifera extract helps reduce post-procedural inflammation, redness, and puffiness.

The Science & Reference: The primary active compound responsible for this is fucoidan, a sulfated polysaccharide abundant in brown algae like Giant Kelp.

  • Expertise: Research in immunology and marine biochemistry.

  • What the Research Shows: Multiple studies have demonstrated that fucoidan exhibits significant anti-inflammatory properties by modulating the activity of immune cells and inhibiting the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines (e.g., TNF-α, IL-6).

  • Reference: Jhamandas, J., & Wie, M. B. (2017). Fucoidan as a Bioactive Polysaccharide: A Comprehensive Review of its Medicinal Properties. Marine Drugs, 15(12), 376. This review article consolidates evidence on fucoidan's anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant effects, which are directly applicable to calming traumatized skin.

  • Relevance to Post-Treatment: After any procedure, the skin initiates an inflammatory response. Controlling this inflammation is crucial for minimizing swelling, redness, and discomfort, leading to a more comfortable and faster recovery. This is especially critical for the thin, vascular under-eye area.

 

 

2. Powerful Antioxidant Protection

The Claim: The extract provides antioxidant protection to support skin healing and protect vulnerable skin from further oxidative stress.

The Science & Reference: Macrocystis Pyrifera is rich in antioxidant vitamins (A, C, E) and unique pigments like fucoxanthin.

  • Expertise: Research in dermatology and oxidative stress.

  • What the Research Shows: Fucoxanthin has been shown in studies to be a more potent antioxidant than vitamin E. Antioxidants neutralize free radicals, which are generated in excess by both UV exposure and the skin's own healing processes post-procedure.

  • Reference: Peng, J., Yuan, J., Wu, C., & Wang, J. (2011). Fucoxanthin, a Marine Carotenoid Present in Brown Seaweeds and Diatoms: Metabolism and Bioactivities Relevant to Human Health. Marine Drugs, 9(10), 1806-1828. This paper details the potent free-radical-scavenging activity of fucoxanthin.

  • Relevance to Post-Treatment: After a treatment, skin is more vulnerable to environmental damage. Providing a high level of antioxidant protection helps safeguard the healing skin, potentially improving outcomes and preventing pigmentation issues.

 

 

3. Enhanced Hydration and Barrier Repair

The Claim: It delivers intense hydration and supports the reconstruction of the skin's protective barrier, which is often compromised by procedures.

The Science & Reference: Kelp contains alginates and other polysaccharides that are superb natural humectants and emollients.

  • Expertise:

  • What the Research Shows: Alginate-based dressings are well-established in medical literature for creating a moist wound-healing environment, which is proven to accelerate tissue repair. The polysaccharides in kelp can attract and bind water to the skin.

  • Reference: Queen, D., Orsted, K., Sanada, H., & Sussman, G. (2004). A dressing history. International Wound Journal, 1(1), 59-77. While about dressings, this review underscores the clinical acceptance of alginate's role in promoting an optimal moist healing environment—a principle directly applicable to post-procedure skincare.

  • Relevance to Post-Treatment: Procedures disrupt the skin's barrier, leading to trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and dryness. Ingredients that effectively hydrate and support barrier function are essential for recovery, reducing tightness, flakiness, and irritation.

 

 

4. Skin Soothing and Minimizing Irritation

The Claim: The mineral complex (including zinc) in kelp has soothing and astringent properties, helping to calm irritated skin.

The Science & Reference: The broad spectrum of minerals in kelp includes zinc, which is known for its skin-healing benefits.

  • Expertise: Dermatology and nutritive skincare.

  • What the Research Shows: Zinc is a co-factor for numerous enzymes involved in skin repair and is a common ingredient in creams for irritated skin (e.g., diaper rash cream). Its mild astringent property can help tighten tissue and reduce the appearance of puffiness.

  • Reference: Lin, P. H., Sermersheim, M., Li, H., Lee, P. H. U., Steinberg, S. M., & Ma, J. (2017). Zinc in Wound Healing Modulation. Nutrients, 10(1), 16. This study outlines the critical role of zinc in various phases of the wound healing process, including inflammation and re-epithelialization.

Relevance to Post-Treatment: Soothing and calming the skin is a primary goal after any treatment. Delivering bioactive minerals supports the skin's innate healing mechanisms.

3 Ways the Argireline® Amplified Peptide in our Algae Eye Serum helps prevent the deepening of crow's feet and other fine lines.

The Science: How Argireline® Amplified Peptide Works on the Under-Eye Area

The primary benefit of this peptide is its targeted action on the neuromuscular junction, which is the source of dynamic expression lines. Its mechanism is often likened to a "topical botox-like effect," though it is not as potent and works through a different, complementary pathway.

1. Targeted Reduction of Dynamic Wrinkle Depth

The Claim: Argireline® Amplified peptide helps reduce the appearance and depth of fine lines and wrinkles caused by repetitive facial movements, such as crow's feet and under-eye squinting.

The Science & Reference: Its mechanism is well-established in cosmetic science. Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 competes with the SNAP-25 protein, a key component of the "SNARE complex" that is essential for a neuron to release acetylcholine and trigger a muscle contraction.

  • Expertise: Neurocosmetics and dermatology.
  • What the Research Shows: By partially inhibiting the SNARE complex, Argireline® reduces the intensity of muscle contractions. This leads to fewer repetitive muscle movements, allowing the skin to relax and existing dynamic wrinkles to appear softened over time.
  • Reference: Blanes-Mira, C., Clemente, J., Jodas, G., Gil, A., Fernández-Ballester, G., Ponsati, B., ... & Pérez-Payá, E. (2002). A synthetic hexapeptide (Argireline) with antiwrinkle activity. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 24(5), 303-310. This is the foundational study conducted by Lipotec. The authors demonstrated in vitro that the peptide inhibits neurotransmitter release and in a 30-day clinical trial on volunteers, it showed a significant 27% reduction in the depth of wrinkles compared to placebo.
  • Relevance to the Under-Eye Area: The orbicularis oculi muscle, which rings the eye, is constantly engaged in blinking, squinting, and expressing. This high muscle activity is a primary cause of crow's feet and fine lines under the eyes. By calming these micro-contractions, Argireline® directly addresses the root cause of these specific aging signs.

2. Prevention of New Expression Line Formation

The Claim: With continued use, it helps prevent the deepening of existing lines and the formation of new ones by training muscles to contract less forcefully.

The Science & Reference: This is a corollary benefit of its primary mechanism. By reducing the intensity of muscle contractions, it lessens the mechanical stress and folding of the skin over time.

  • Expertise: Preventive dermatology and skin biomechanics.
  • What the Research Shows: The 2002 Blanes-Mira et al. study showed that the effect was progressive over the 30-day period, suggesting that consistent use leads to cumulative benefits. The principle is that by mitigating the cause (muscle movement), you prevent the effect (permanent wrinkles).
  • Reference: The same foundational study (Blanes-Mira et al., 2002) supports this claim, as the reduction in wrinkle depth is a preventive outcome.
  • Relevance to the Under-Eye Area: This is a key selling point for a demographic looking for preventative, long-term maintenance solutions alongside immediate results.

3. Soothing Effect and Improvement of Skin Smoothness

The Claim: The peptide can have a secondary soothing effect on the skin, improving overall smoothness and texture.

The Science & Reference: While its primary function is neuromodulation, clinical studies often report improvements in skin smoothness and hydration as secondary benefits, likely due to the relaxation of the skin surface.

  • Expertise: Clinical cosmetic testing.
  • What the Research Shows: Clinical assessments in studies frequently use parameters like "skin smoothness" and "hydration" alongside wrinkle depth measurements. The relaxation of the skin may allow it to better reflect light and appear smoother.
  • Reference: Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343-349. This review article on cosmeceutical peptides discusses Acetyl Hexapeptide-8's mechanism and cites its clinical efficacy for improving the appearance of wrinkles, often accompanied by enhancements in skin texture.
  • Relevance to the Under-Eye Area: Soothing the skin and improving texture complements the anti-wrinkle effect, contributing to an overall more refreshed and youthful eye area appearance.

 

How do we deal with hyperpigmentation? The myths, the real deal, and how to fix it. References

 

Let’s break down LED masks, red light therapy, and everything in between, references

 

  • Hamblin MR. Mechanisms and applications of the anti-inflammatory effects of photobiomodulation. AIMS Biophysics. 2017;4(3):337–361. https://doi.org/10.3934/biophy.2017.3.337
  • Avci P, Gupta A, Sadasivam M, et al. Low-level laser (light) therapy (LLLT) in skin: stimulating, healing, restoring. Seminars in Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery. 2013;32(1):41–52. https://doi.org/10.12788/j.sder.0023
  • Lee SY, You CE, Park MY. Blue and red light combination LED phototherapy for acne vulgaris in patients with skin phototype IV. J Dermatolog Treat. 2007;18(5):288–293. https://doi.org/10.1080/09546630701267454
  • Gold MH, Nestor MS, Metelitsa AI, et al. A comprehensive review of non-thermal low-level light therapy, devices, and clinical applications. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2021;14(1):S3–S15. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7898372/
  • American Academy of Dermatology (AAD). Acne: Diagnosis and treatment—Light therapy. https://www.aad.org/public/diseases/acne/derm-treat/light-therapy
  • Mahmoud BH, Ruvolo E, Hexsel CL, et al. Impact of long-wavelength UVA and visible light on melanocompetent skin: visible light enhances pigmentation. J Invest Dermatol. 2010;130(8):2092–2097. https://doi.org/10.1038/jid.2010.115
  • Anderson RR, Parrish JA. The optics of human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1981;77(1):13–19. Classic reference for skin’s optical window.

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